LANVIN 2012

The first question that sprung to mind upon entering the Lanvin resort appointment this morning was “Where are we?". Not because the whirlwind of this pre-season that’s quickly becoming a season has left us disoriented, but because with every collection Alber Elbaz takes us to a different, delightful locale.

For resort, the journey is not particularly linear but it’s definitely a trip. Elbaz began at the library, looking at books on ethnic costumes, mostly—if his handy visual aids were any indication—of island or African tradition. “There was something magical there, because of the freedom,” he said. “Those clothes were not for one season but many seasons.” (Nevermind the likelihood that the village women he was admiring didn’t have much choice but to wear the same thing twice; this is about fantasy.) Then it was off to Paris where Elbaz made a similar observation of a woman on the opposite spectrum: Madame Grès, the subject of a recent exhibit at Musée Bourdelle. “In 1947, she had a dress, and in 1978, almost the same dress: the same technique with the same fabric,” he said. Clearly, we’re heading for clothes with staying power.

From Mme Grès he looked to Elizabeth Taylor (“an actress of many seasons”) and her passion for white and diamonds, then the orange robes worn by the monks of Laos, then Prince William–as–groom in his Irish Guards uniform, and at last ended up on the red carpet at Cannes. While you couldn’t really track Elbaz’s trek on a map, his stops did come together in his collection.

The strongest element stemmed from the ethnic influences, played out in colorful fringe dresses in ombre pinks and a mix of yellows, browns, and reds. Most were paired with fantastic necklaces featuring raffia tassels, big enamel shells, chunky gems, and varied lucky charms. The look felt new, a contrast to Elbaz’s signature dramatically scaled, billowing style, though that was here too in super-glam, muted lamé dresses and a black tiered, ruffle skirt reminiscent of flamenco. As for a uniform, Elbaz offered his woman relaxed khaki pants rolled at the ankle and multiple trench coats in soft, fluid fabrics. Both could easily become staples for everyday dressing, which makes sense considering that Elbaz ultimately concluded that “the best fashion is fashion of the street.”

Moms take note, one element of this collection does have a limited shelf life: Elbaz’s small collection of childrenswear, basically mini-me Lanvin. Each adorable look comes with a matching cloth doll.



source : vogue









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Comments

  1. Hola.

    Me encanta tu blog, es precioso.
    Te sigo desde ya!
    Me sigues?

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    Muuaks :)

    ReplyDelete
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    ReplyDelete
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    ReplyDelete

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