If London’s punk scene serves as the point of departure for Jean Paul Gaultier‘s spring couture collection, his heart remains in Paris. Even if there were elements that recalled Brit Punk–namely spiked mohawk hair and studded cropped leather jackets–it was only a disguise for a masterfully executed collection featuring Gaultier’s sharp couture skills. Of course, there was also that extra touch of humor that only Gaultier is capable of.
Without any music, an announcer (a recording made by Catherine Deneuve) called out each outfit and the girls carried small number cards simulating the couture shows in the post WWII days. Each look was a punk song reference: ‘London Calling’ was a strapless smoking skirt suit with a thigh high split skirt and black fishnets; ‘Anarchy in the U.K.’ was a multicolor smoking suit embroidered with metallic sequins and leather lapels; the last look, a beaded corseted column dress was ‘Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die.’ But no Gaultier couture show is complete without the requisite nautical outfit. This time it took the form of a long-sleeved off-the shoulder dress done in strands of white and dark navy.
By now it’s also become a Gaultier’s tradition to entertain his guests. This time a can-can dancer danced down the runway, lifting up her white skirt to reveal a print of multiple legs. We take fashion too seriously sometimes and each season Gaultier never fails to make us laugh.